Fundamentals of Knitting

Introduction

Knitting is a popular method of fabric construction, particularly known for its elasticity, comfort, and versatility. It differs significantly from weaving in both technique and machinery. This book explores the core concepts, types, machinery, and fabrics related to knitting.

Understanding Knitting

Definition of Knitting

Knitting is a process of fabric formation in which yarn is converted into loops and these loops are intermeshed to form a fabric. It can be done by hand or by machines, and it produces elastic, soft, and stretchable fabrics.

Classification of Knitting

Types of Knitting

Knitting is broadly classified into:

1. Weft Knitting

   • Yarn runs horizontally.

   • Loops are formed across the width of the fabric.

   • Common in garments like t-shirts, sweaters, and socks.

   • Examples: Plain knit, Rib knit, Interlock, Purl knit.

2. Warp Knitting

   • Yarn runs vertically.

   • Each needle gets its own yarn.

   • Common in lingerie, sportswear, and industrial textiles.

   • Examples: Tricot, Raschel.

Knitting vs. Weaving

Differences Between Knitting and Weaving

Feature	Knitting	Weaving
Yarn Direction	Loops made in horizontal/vertical	Yarn interlaced at right angles
Fabric Stretchability	High elasticity	Less elasticity
Comfort	Soft and breathable	More structured
Productivity	Generally higher	Moderate
Fabric Types	T-shirts, sweaters, sportswear	Denim, shirting, canvas
Yarn Consumption	Higher per square meter	Lower

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Knitting Machinery

List of Knitting Machinery

1. Circular Knitting Machine

   • Used for producing tubular fabrics.

   • Common in weft knitting.

2. Flat Knitting Machine

   • Used for garment panels like collars, cuffs, sweaters.

   • Available in both manual and computerized forms.

3. Warp Knitting Machine

   • Tricot and Raschel machines.

   • Used for continuous and faster production.

4. Hand Knitting Machine

   • Manual or semi-automatic machine for simple designs.

5. Computerized Knitting Machine

   • Allows intricate patterns and programmable operations.

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Knit Fabrics

Common Knit Fabrics

1. Single Jersey – Light, stretchy, common in t-shirts.

2. Rib Knit – Alternating knit and purl stitches; used in cuffs and collars.

3. Interlock Knit – Thicker, double-knit fabric; smooth both sides.

4. Purl Knit – Looks like purl stitch on both sides; highly stretchable.

5. Tricot – Fine warp-knit fabric, used in lingerie.

6. Raschel Knit – Coarser warp-knit; used in nets, lace, and upholstery.

7. Fleece Knit – Brushed back; warm and soft, used in jackets and sweatshirts.

8. Jacquard Knit – Patterned fabric made with computerized machines.